We set out on this trip with the intention of going with the flow, letting serendipity be our guide, etc. and so far, it has been all that and more. For instance, I was determined to avoid the major highways but when you have the choice of a 2 M wide shoulder of smooth asphalt as opposed to the jarring (physically and mechanically) pot-holed or cobbled back roads it is easy to throw out that 'rule'. I was also determined to avoid the big cities but we have just spent 3 great days in Izmir (pop. 3 million) so there goes another 'rule'. Our daily route and coming night's lodging continue to be figured out on the fly and sometimes not coming together at all as planned.
But as I was saying, Izmir has been one pleasant surprise after another. The night before riding here was spent in Aliaga, a mid-sized town with a lovely seaside promenade but also home to the largest oil refinery in Turkey. We camped in a run down 'campsite', a really lovely setting marred by the distant industrial landscape, the ever present litter and the the dismal 'facilities' (toilet). We had a good ride ahead of us the following day, hoping to get into Izmir at a decent hour so we opted for the highway route. The first 10 km were smooth sailing but then the shoulder narrowed to, an often sand covered, 40 cms with a drop on the right and a steady stream of big oil tankers on our left. Claire goes into this zen-like state quite impervious to the traffic flying by 1 M away and just pedals along without a waver. I, on the other hand, was quietly freaking out. I'm acutely aware of the statistics and have always had a 'thing' about traffic from behind. We finally pulled over somewhat drained by the tension and heat , still about 30 km out of Izmir. Using Google Map on the smart phone we bought in Istanbul (our I-phone wouldn't work in Europe!) we figured out a hopeful looking, back road route into town. We completely lucked out. 15 km of quiet, relatively smooth, scenic roads through fields, past a military airport – Turkey has a large standing army and a compulsory draft - and, out of the blue, we came upon an awesome bike path. Another 15 km of vehicle-free riding and we were well into the city. Jumped on to the Seabus-like ferry, crossed the bay and we were smack dab in the centre of historic Izmir. One couldn't ask for a better bike-friendly entry to a major city.
Within 20 minutes of arrival we were met by Hakan, a good-looking, charming young biker (Claire was impressed!) who we followed through the crowded, winding streets to a tea stall in the centre of the old bazaar, teeming with life, ambience and history. Hakan was a friend of Mustafa, a Warm Showers host and ex-President of the Izmir Bicycle Assoc., through whom we were instantly connected to the local biking community. Hakan led us to Sema, an equally lovely lady (Jim was impressed!) with whom we chatted for maybe 5 minutes then she left town and we stayed in her apartment for 3 nights with only her cat for company. That same first evening, Mustafa insisted on coming by to meet us which led to a chance meeting with Pinar & Paolo, and an immediate invitation to come for dinner at their nearby flat. Pinar & Paolo are both writers/bloggers/advocates for everything cycling related. They were both gregarious, intelligent and excellent company – we had two great visits with them and would love to return the favour some time.
I recount the above as just one of the more exceptional examples of the warmth and generosity with which we've been received in Turkey. As Pinar explained, Turks are decendants of nomads with a tradition of respecting and receiving travellers. We have had daily reminders of this tradition. BTW, for all you roadies out there, the following day we saw the end of the 6th stage of the Tour de Turkey, that Mark Cavendish, a strong sprinter won seemingly effortlessly. The nuance of bike racing leaves me baffled.
We leave Marmaris tomorrow for the Island of Rhodes (Greece). We've learnt a lot about this country but we've really just scratched the surface of western Turkey, the most liberal and secular, corner of the country. The young English speaking Turks we've met have all been well educated, are universally dismayed by the direction of their government (sound familiar?) and rather pessimistic about the future. Turkey has somehow absorbed 2,000,000 Syrian refugees with enormous tolerance and we quibble about a few thousand more! I guess the over-arching sentiment we both share as we leave Turkey, is that we, in the overly independent, self-absorbed West have a lot to learn about hospitality....or, at least I do.
But as I was saying, Izmir has been one pleasant surprise after another. The night before riding here was spent in Aliaga, a mid-sized town with a lovely seaside promenade but also home to the largest oil refinery in Turkey. We camped in a run down 'campsite', a really lovely setting marred by the distant industrial landscape, the ever present litter and the the dismal 'facilities' (toilet). We had a good ride ahead of us the following day, hoping to get into Izmir at a decent hour so we opted for the highway route. The first 10 km were smooth sailing but then the shoulder narrowed to, an often sand covered, 40 cms with a drop on the right and a steady stream of big oil tankers on our left. Claire goes into this zen-like state quite impervious to the traffic flying by 1 M away and just pedals along without a waver. I, on the other hand, was quietly freaking out. I'm acutely aware of the statistics and have always had a 'thing' about traffic from behind. We finally pulled over somewhat drained by the tension and heat , still about 30 km out of Izmir. Using Google Map on the smart phone we bought in Istanbul (our I-phone wouldn't work in Europe!) we figured out a hopeful looking, back road route into town. We completely lucked out. 15 km of quiet, relatively smooth, scenic roads through fields, past a military airport – Turkey has a large standing army and a compulsory draft - and, out of the blue, we came upon an awesome bike path. Another 15 km of vehicle-free riding and we were well into the city. Jumped on to the Seabus-like ferry, crossed the bay and we were smack dab in the centre of historic Izmir. One couldn't ask for a better bike-friendly entry to a major city.
Within 20 minutes of arrival we were met by Hakan, a good-looking, charming young biker (Claire was impressed!) who we followed through the crowded, winding streets to a tea stall in the centre of the old bazaar, teeming with life, ambience and history. Hakan was a friend of Mustafa, a Warm Showers host and ex-President of the Izmir Bicycle Assoc., through whom we were instantly connected to the local biking community. Hakan led us to Sema, an equally lovely lady (Jim was impressed!) with whom we chatted for maybe 5 minutes then she left town and we stayed in her apartment for 3 nights with only her cat for company. That same first evening, Mustafa insisted on coming by to meet us which led to a chance meeting with Pinar & Paolo, and an immediate invitation to come for dinner at their nearby flat. Pinar & Paolo are both writers/bloggers/advocates for everything cycling related. They were both gregarious, intelligent and excellent company – we had two great visits with them and would love to return the favour some time.
I recount the above as just one of the more exceptional examples of the warmth and generosity with which we've been received in Turkey. As Pinar explained, Turks are decendants of nomads with a tradition of respecting and receiving travellers. We have had daily reminders of this tradition. BTW, for all you roadies out there, the following day we saw the end of the 6th stage of the Tour de Turkey, that Mark Cavendish, a strong sprinter won seemingly effortlessly. The nuance of bike racing leaves me baffled.
We leave Marmaris tomorrow for the Island of Rhodes (Greece). We've learnt a lot about this country but we've really just scratched the surface of western Turkey, the most liberal and secular, corner of the country. The young English speaking Turks we've met have all been well educated, are universally dismayed by the direction of their government (sound familiar?) and rather pessimistic about the future. Turkey has somehow absorbed 2,000,000 Syrian refugees with enormous tolerance and we quibble about a few thousand more! I guess the over-arching sentiment we both share as we leave Turkey, is that we, in the overly independent, self-absorbed West have a lot to learn about hospitality....or, at least I do.